A coat for Moshe – Burdastyle #6039

I promised I’d post more about the coat and the lining etc, so here we go…

Charcoal Intenso 80% Wool 20% Cashmere with Fendi lining, both from Tessuti in Melbourne
Charcoal Intenso 80% Wool 20% Cashmere with Fendi lining, both from Tessuti in Melbourne

First, let me show you the lining. It’s a beautiful Fendi that looks more chocolate-y in colour than grey, but somehow works really nicely with the Charcoal Intenso wool/cashmere that I can’t seem to stop stroking! By the way, if you haven’t shopped at Tessuti, you’re missing a real treat! The staff is divine, and so helpful! Rachel went above and beyond, I mean seriously, amazing! She helped me immeasurably, emailing smart phone photos, and sending me a stack of fabric samples in the mail, with so many phone calls to get the fabric and the lining choices just right. It’s my all-time favourite shop for fabric. I spend many a happy hour on their website, and head into town as often as I can to walk around the shop. It  is dangerous, I must warn you, but oh so delicious!

Alrighty then. I have my fabric all sorted. Now, to find a pattern. Have you ever thought about making a man’s coat, and then gone online to search for a really good pattern, only to find that there are about three patterns – in total!!! Yeah, it’s so frustrating! If you follow Peter Lappin’s fabulous blog, Male Pattern Boldness, and have read his post about this very subject, you’ll have at least an appreciation for why that might be, even though you may of course, as I am, still be left a little frustrated.

However. That’s just how it is. I found a whole “2” patterns for Moshe’s coat, these…

Vogue Patterns V8720
Vogue Patterns V8720

First, this Vogue trench, which is a fabulous pattern, but it’s an unlined mid-season coat. Not what I had in mind. If I knew how to tailor it for a heavier fabric, and if I knew how to add a lining to an unlined coat (Dad, where are you when I need you!), then I’d choose this. But since I really don’t know how to do any of that, this pattern got “nixed”. (Is that how you spell that word?)

Do you know of a good winter lined men’s trench coat pattern? I’d love to know about it! If you have one and want to sell it, please let me know. Or if I can get a copy somehow?

Anyway, I looked further, and found this Burda coat below, and I quite like it. It’s called Adam #6039. What’s with the names they give to their patterns? I always wonder if it’s the model’s name, or maybe the person whose design it is. Or do they just pick a name they like. Anyway, it’s “Adam”.


Moshe likes it too, so this is the one I’ll use. Not that I have much choice, really, given it is one of only two patterns in the world for men’s coats! There are heaps of patterns for men’s jackets, by the way, just not for actual coats. But it’s OK, I like it mostly, even though I’m not entirely sure about the front. It might be the photograph, so I’ll have to check it out when I make the muslin, but I might add one more row of buttons to make it look a little better. What do you think?

Not crazy about this model! Couldn’t he have fixed his hair?

Love the tab!

Nice pockets

I really like the sleeves!

The back looks very nice too

This pattern is downloadable from burdastyle.com

Now, as I was waiting for my fabric to arrive in the post, I had a quick look on my bookshelf to see if any of my books had instruction on tailoring men’s jackets or coats, and I found nothing. I have a few books on women’s clothing, but nothing that would help me with making this coat with that professionally tailored finish I’m after.

After a fairly intensive look around Amazon and The Book Depository, I realized that although there were quite a few books on the subject, I had absolutely no way of filtering out which were the best books to get! So I decided to email Peter Lappin and ask him. He wrote back to me immediately, suggesting a couple of books that would be good, with the Amazon links as well!

Tailoring (Singer Sewing Reference Library)I bought the first book Peter recommended, Tailoring (Singer Sewing Reference Library) [Hardcover], Cy Decosse (Editor), Renee Dignan (Editor), Barbara Weiland O’Connell (Author). Looks fantastic! The second book was a fairly intense book on tailoring men’s suits, and since I can’t see that in my future, I decided to give it a miss. As Peter wisely suggested. Thanks so much Peter for all your advice!
Now I did buy a couple more books while I was on the Amazon site, as you do. Well, as I do. They look fantastic, and I really like Claire Shaeffer. I already own her book entitled, “Couture Sewing Techniques“, which is unbelievably gorgeous to look at, as well as great reference book. Her “Couture Cardigan Jacket” book isn’t out yet, but I pre-ordered :)And while I was searching through The Book Depository, comparing prices and shipping etc with Amazon, I found Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide, and decided I had to have that too. Man! I’ve got a lot of reading to do now!

Couture Sewing - Tailoring Techniques, by Claire B. Shaeffer
Couture Sewing – Tailoring Techniques, by Claire B. Shaeffer

Couture Sewing - The Couture Cardigan Jacket, by Claire B. Shaeffer
Couture Sewing – The Couture Cardigan Jacket

Couture Sewing Techniques, by Claire B. Shaeffer
Couture Sewing Techniques, by Claire B. Shaeffer

Fabric Sewing Guide, by Claire B. Shaeffer
Fabric Sewing Guide, by Claire B. Shaeffer

But I can’t think of anything nicer than curling up on my couch with one of these fantastic books to read, listening to the cold wind and rain outside, can you? Yeah, I know, I’m imagining the future. The books haven’t arrived yet. And who knows if it’ll be cold and windy and raining then. It is now, so I used a little poetic license.

Next step, while I await delivery of my books, is to make a muslin. I’m going to nick out to Darn Cheap Fabrics this afternoon to see if I can get a cheap and not-too-nasty wool with a similar hand and drape. Tomorrow’s Sunday, and I’m going to spend it quilting. If I get enough done, I’ll post you to show. Otherwise…

Enjoy your weekend!
x Helene

PS! Oops, I nearly forgot! I bought a fabulous vintage sewing pattern on Etsy from Debrasgoods that I really love! What do you think? Like it? And how’s that pink hat!!!

Vintage 1960's Vogue Couturier Design Pattern # 1391
Vintage 1960’s Vogue Couturier Design Pattern # 1391 by Ronald Paterson
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